How it works: Cacao Flavour Development at the Farmer Level

Premium cacao is used in premium chocolate making. Craft chocolate makers want a quality product with consistency in supply and quality. Rautini, provides a service to control both. Working with great cacao farmers, Rautini’s supply partners follow strict requirements from the cacao pod harvest through to the dried export beans. In New Zealand the beans are stored in low humidity ambient conditions.

Under these conditions Rautini can supply chocolate makers premium cacao with validation of origin, ethical production, and consistent quality attributes. Each year Rautini does a farm tour to one of its supply networks to allow chocolate makers meet the framers who make their production possible. Our supply chain is our community.

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So, what’s with the flavour…

A combination of factors fusing together are what contribute to flavour development in cacao, firstly the plant genetics, there are over 750 compounds that have been identified in cocoa. Secondly the terra (location in which it is grown) Terra is the influence climate, soil and surrounding flora growing in the same root system have on the characteristics of the cacao bean flavour.

Finally, is the post-harvest processing which humans can influence. Fermentation, drying at farmer level and roasting and conching at chocolate maker level.

1. Fermentation– in our view most of a chocolate’s potential end-flavour is created during this crucial stage. Pulp inside the cacao pod can be fermented, and in the process impart flavour into cacao beans. Cacao pulp contains about 80% water and starts sterile with an initial pH of 3.5.

Natural sugars (sucrose),largely derived from the pulp surrounding the beans, when placed under anaerobic conditions (the absence of oxygen) generate a temperature between32ºC to 38ºC. In this first and shorter phase of fermentation (1-2 days) the wild yeasts are active. They are found on the surface of cacao pods and production equipment such as the bin and banana leaves used in the process. These wild yeasts decompose sucrose into reducing sugar (fructose and glucose) into alcohol and carbon dioxide.

In the second aerobic phase, bacteria such as ‘lactobacter’, dominate this longer phase of fermentation oxidizing alcohol into non-volatile lactic acid then acetic acid. These acids, along with exothermic heat generated during fermentation can reach 45ºC+. This starts the process of slowly penetrating the beans by breaking down their cell walls, permitting enzymes to access substrates (mainly cacao proteins) then “digesting” them into constituent peptides & amino acids to soften polyphenols. Together the alkaloids theobromine and caffeine, account for much of a chocolate’s bitterness and astringency. This oxidation, particularly on the part of the enzyme polyphenol oxidase, causes a browning of cocoa beans that give chocolate its characteristic colour.

Note Turning beans periodically to increase oxygen levels, decreases the chance for mould growth, & ensure even fermentation.

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Rautini Fermentation & Drying Method-without Temperature probe. (Phase 1)

1. Pod collection- Pods should be ripe (mature)     Seeds can be heard rattling within the pod.

·       No Pod rots.

·       No older than 4 days after harvest.

2.    Split pods. Remove placenta and out of specification beans.

·      No black seeds.

·      No sprouts.

3. Day 1 (First 24 hours). Place wet beans in a fermentation box lined with banana leaves. Press air out. Cover with banana leaves for 24 hours.
4. Day 2 (Second 48 hours). Turn beans into a new box. Separate beans. Mix the colours well. Cover with banana leaf’s. Leave for 48 hours.
5. Day 4 (Second 48 hours).Turn the beans into a new box. Separate beans. Mix the colours well. Cover with Banana leaf’s. Leave for 48 hours.
6. Day 6. Take the beans out. Separate beans. Break up Clumps. Spread out thinly to dry.

Rautini Fermentation & Drying Method-with Temperature probe. (Phase 2)

7. Pod collection- Pods should be ripe (mature)     Seeds can be heard rattling within the pod.

·       No rots.

·       No older than 4 days after harvest.

8. Split pods. Remove placenta and out of specification     beans.

·      No black seeds.

·      No sprouts.

9. Day 1 (First 24 hours). Place wet beans in a fermentation box lined with banana leaves. Press air out. Cover with banana leaves for 24 hours.
10. Day 2. Turn beans into a new box. Separate beans. Mix the colours well. Cover with banana leaf’s.
11. Day 3. Temperature test between 30- 40hours. Once 50C reached.
12. Turn the beans into a new box. Separate beans. Mix the colours well. Cover with Banana leaf’s.
13. Temperature test between 30- 40hours. Once 50C reached
14. Conduct wet bean cut test
15. Take the beans out. Separate beans. Break up Clumps. Spread out thinly to dry.
16. Turn hourly for the first two days.

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2. Drying is a crucial interim step to reduce moisture content from around >60% in freshly fermented beans to<8% (after-drying). This is achieved either by traditional sun drying laid out on tarpaulins or cement patios (weather permitting) or drying houses sometimes referred to as Solar houses.

Drying too fast results in crust formation on the husks that trap water inside which invites mould. Too slow retards the removal of built-up acetic acid and invites mould growth.

Note: Always ensure the beans are cooled down at night if using mechanical heat, again this results in crust formation on the husks that trap water inside which invites mould.

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